[Surf Gallery] And for Three Days

It was one of those east swells you see pop up on the charts a week out. You know you’re getting waves, you start frothing at the mouth days in advance. There’s a good chance of that “devil east wind” coming along with it, or even a more frustrating northeast wind—where it’s almost good but it’s really not. You try and keep your expectations low and your hopes high because you know there will be some sort of window where everything will come together for a few hours at most. And it does, better than you had expected, and for three days.