A Woman’s Right to Denim

Lady Lee Jeans collage of vintage advertisements
Presented by Lee

The very first pair of jeans made for women

Jeans and a top. A woman’s unofficial uniform for when she needs something quick that looks good. A closet mainstay. There’s a company you can thank for that. You’re likely familiar with Lee®; they’ve been around for over a century—and for good reason. And that’s nothing to do with the fact that they’re a solid, trusty and quality pair of jeans—they are—but this is more to do with revolutionizing a woman’s wardrobe. If that sounds monumental, it’s because it really was. Lee® produced the first pair of jeans designed expressly for a woman’s body.

Coming out of World War II, and in line with the rising popularity of country western movies, people were changing their closets. Women were now working in more hands-on industries and seeing themselves represented in denim on the big screen. But did they want to wear men’s denim? No, they deserved something of their own that took them into account. Enter Lady Lee Riders in 1947, the very first pair tailored for women.

“Authentic Cowboy Pants, button-fly, sanforized, 8 oz. coarse weave denim.”

Soon any member of your family will be able to step out in true Western style and comfort … in real Western Lee Riders … a garment that is rugged and useful.

– Lee®, 1947

Lady Lee Riders

Button-fly | 1947-1950

Lady Lee Riders front and back view

DART IN YOKE.
One modification made to the design of the Men’s Lee Rider to create the Lady Lee Rider was adding darts on either side of the back yoke/riser of the pant—just below the belt loops—to taper the fit for a woman’s waist.

Dart in Yoke image
fig. 01

DART IN YOKE.
One modification made to the design of the Men’s Lee Rider to create the Lady Lee Rider was adding darts on either side of the back yoke/riser of the pant—just below the belt loops—to taper the fit for a woman’s waist.

LABELS.
The hot-iron branded leather “twitch” label was introduced in late 1945 when the H.D. Lee Company filed an application with the US Patent Office for trademark. The application was filed on November 7, 1945, and states that the logo was first used on November 2, 1945.

Label with Lee logo
fig. 02

LABELS.
The hot-iron branded leather “twitch” label was introduced in late 1945 when the H.D. Lee Company filed an application with the US Patent Office for trademark. The application was filed on November 7, 1945, and states that the logo was first used on November 2, 1945.

BUTTON-FRONT FLY.
Though Lady Lee Riders Authentic Cowboy Pant (product #331) was first introduced with a button-fly front, Lee discontinued the sale of the button-fly pants for women in favor of zipper-fly pants by July 1950.

Button-front fly partially unbuttoned
fig.03

BUTTON-FRONT FLY.
Though Lady Lee Riders Authentic Cowboy Pant (product #331) was first introduced with a button-fly front, Lee discontinued the sale of the button-fly pants for women in favor of zipper-fly pants by July 1950.

BACK POCKET FLASHER.
The paper flasher stapled to the right back pocket touted the iconic hot-iron branded (twitch) leather label, sanforized denim(and reminded women to buy their correct size because they would not shrink), and Lee’s Money-Back Guarantee.

Lady Lee Riders back label and illustration of girl with a horse
fig. 04

BACK POCKET FLASHER.
The paper flasher stapled to the right back pocket touted the iconic hot-iron branded (twitch) leather label, sanforized denim(and reminded women to buy their correct size because they would not shrink), and Lee’s Money-Back Guarantee.

LEE RIDER BUTTON.
The same button used on men’s Lee Riders were used in Lady Lee Riders.

Lee Rider button close up
fig. 05

LEE RIDER BUTTON.
The same button used on men’s Lee Riders were used in Lady Lee Riders.

DETAIL: INTERIOR LABEL.
When men’s Lee Riders were introduced, the woven labels with Lee’s logo were black with gold and red embroidery. The application for trademark of the woven label with this “Lee” logo, with straight e’s, was submitted to the US Patent Office on October 28, 1954, and states the logo was first used in August 1948—indicating these pants were made after that date. The term “sanforized” on this waistband label indicates the denim used to make these pants was treated to prevent shrinkage.

Gold and red thread interior label
fig. 06

DETAIL: INTERIOR LABEL.
When men’s Lee Riders were introduced, the woven labels with Lee’s logo were black with gold and red embroidery. The application for trademark of the woven label with this “Lee” logo, with straight e’s, was submitted to the US Patent Office on October 28, 1954, and states the logo was first used in August 1948—indicating these pants were made after that date. The term “sanforized” on this waistband label indicates the denim used to make these pants was treated to prevent shrinkage.

SELVEDGE SIDE SEAMS.
This pair of Lady Lee Riders includes selvedge — or “self-edge”— side seams.

inside of jean leg, selvedge side seams
fig. 07

SELVEDGE SIDE SEAMS.
This pair of Lady Lee Riders includes selvedge — or “self-edge”— side seams.

COPPER RIVETS.
Like the Men’s Lee Riders, Lady Lee Riders were initially made with copper rivets to reinforce stress points (pockets). The rivets on this pair are stamped with “LEE.”

copper rivets close up
fig. 08

COPPER RIVETS.
Like the Men’s Lee Riders, Lady Lee Riders were initially made with copper rivets to reinforce stress points (pockets). The rivets on this pair are stamped with “LEE.”

INSPECTION TAG.
Each Lee garment was carefully inspected before leaving the factory. This pair of Lady Lee Riders was made and passed inspection in the H.D. Lee Company plant at 20th and Wyandotte, Kansas City, Missouri.

inspection tag close up
fig. 09

INSPECTION TAG.
Each Lee garment was carefully inspected before leaving the factory. This pair of Lady Lee Riders was made and passed inspection in the H.D. Lee Company plant at 20th and Wyandotte, Kansas City, Missouri.

Ladies lee riders vintage advertisements showing women wearing jeans on a ranch next to a barrel or a horse. Mountains sit in the background.