Stories behind the breakfast carts of NYC
Interview and photos by Matt Keller
In the wee morning hours in NYC, there is a time when things are a little bit slower, less hectic and slightly quieter, before the jackhammering and the heavy construction and the citywide workforce of almost 4.7 million hits the streets. In those moments of calm, as the rest of the city wakes up, the people behind the breakfast carts finish their last bits of prep for the morning rush.
A day in the life usually starts at 11 p.m.: Pick up a cart at midnight, prep from 2-4 a.m., and open up around 6 a.m. Then pack up shop around 11 a.m. and rewind play. The following is a little peek into the caring humans—from all different backgrounds and countries—behind some of the breakfast carts that provide early morning “regular coffees” and “baconeggandcheeses,” a smile and a sense of community on the streets of NYC.
East 47th and Park Ave
Joanna Despas—aka Mama Jo—sets up shop every morning at 2 a.m. just as she’s been doing for over 35 years. Originally from the small town of Pyloroi in northern Greece, Mama Jo came to the states in 1968 with not a dime in her pocket. Since then, she has started and sold restaurants, put her kids through college, and is now the owner of one Mama Jo’s famous breakfast cart.
Most popular order?
Coffee, bacon-egg-and-cheese. Also, they love my spanakopita and olive bread.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
I make veggie omelets a lot because I love vegetables. Also, love the spanakopita.
Morning ritual?
Ah, you kidding me? I get up at 10:45 p.m. Leave my house at 11 p.m. I’m in the cart at 2 a.m. I have no rituals. I turn on my music in my van and get to work. I love all music but I like to listen to country music. I’m a country girl.
Most memorable shift or words of wisdom?
It’s not only what you sell but how you treat people. You have to be nice. It’s not only food. If you don’t like what you do, don’t do it. Doing this breakfast cart is a pleasure and not everyone can say that. If you satisfy yourself, it satisfies other people.
West 44th and 6th Ave
Originally from Mexico, Nino has been in the restaurant and breakfast cart business in New York City for almost 40 years. Serving every walk of life with coffee, bacon-egg-and-cheeses, and his famous chorizo-egg-and-cheese, Nino has made the corner of 44th and 6th a slice of early morning paradise for over 25 years.
Most popular order?
Bacon-egg-and-cheese and chorizo-egg-and-cheese.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
My favorite definitely has to be the chorizo-egg-and-cheese.
Most memorable shift or words of wisdom?
For me, every day is a memory. You got to love what you do. Every day is something new, but you got to love what you do.
Morning ritual?
We’re here at 4 a.m. and ready by 5:30 a.m. My ritual is to be positive, ’cause everybody has to work, you know?’
West 48th and Broadway
Edith and Angelo Spanoudakis have been married for 100 years—they kid, they kid, it’s somewhere closer to 47 years. Originally from Greece, they met in Texas and then moved to NYC in 1976. They started their pushcart business in the ’80s and have been doing it ever since.
Most popular order?
Edith: Large coffee with regular milk and sugar. You know what, that’s wrong. Large coffee, black.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
Edith: Plain corn muffin. With butter, if I take it home.
Angelo: Are you sure you are not the IRS? You’re asking a lot of questions. Haha.
Most memorable shift?
Edith: You see many things in New York. Beautiful things and ugly things.
Angelo: (Helping a customer) The IRS is here interviewing us. Haha!
What were some of the beautiful things you’ve seen?
Edith: A couple giving each other a kiss. They didn’t care who was watching. I love that. It was like a scene out of the movie.
Angelo: (Pointing towards birds on the sidewalk) Birds!
