September has truly been one of the most consistent run of waves I can remember. Not only were there waves, but it was accompanied by abnormally warm weather and favorable winds. I feel like everyone who is a surfer has had an ear to ear grin all month, including this one. Now with the last of the Maria swell fading out, I have time to reflect on the month that was.
Here on eastern Long Island, we are all too accustomed to swell events that last a day—if we’re lucky. Hurricane Irma, Jose, and Maria caused destruction in the Caribbean but sent us week-long swell events, something only seen during hurricane season. The long period swells were a mix of directions from the south, southeast, and east. With each change in direction and period, a different surf spot would light up. Throughout the past few weeks, some good friends and I scored shots of beach break barrels, heavy outer bar conditions and even a trip across the sound to score a fickle point break.
With all the waves, it was hard to get anything done around here and even out of the water I was constantly forecasting what the call for the following day would be. Looking back at the photos it sure was a memorable run of surf and maybe one of the last ones I can commit to, as my wife and I are expecting a baby girl in November.
Featured swell gallery brought to you by the Wave Chaser IPA-wielding gents over at Montauk Brew Co.