Photos and words by: Rob Schanz | @robschanz
Beckoned towards the light Reflections of sea and sound offer a ceremony of rhythmic hues. Dawn awakens us, dancing Ultraviolet upon our backs. We rejoice and bathe in the ripples of repetition.
When we woke up the sun was just starting to turn the sky that light blue which teeters on the edge of purple. Today’s purpose was to find waves and also find solace in the beauty of Big Sur. We paddled out before the sun peeked over the horizon and when it did the soft rays of light warmed our wetsuits.
Depending on the time of the year, these parts of California offer up a chilly morning followed by a warm afternoon and then finish off with a chilly evening. It’s almost like clockwork happening over and over and over again but that doesn’t bother us. When some things are too predictable it inspires us to pay more attention to the details. The surfing is consistent but the waves and the force of the ocean are not and here lies the obsession.
The “search” is something a lot of surfers talk about. We’ll spend a whole day searching for waves even when we know there’s a good chance things won’t line up. If we’re with friends it’s all about sharing the adventure with them and if we’re alone it’s about reflecting inward. And that’s just it, there is more to surfing than just surfing, it allows us to travel and experience new cultures, try new foods, make new friends and get a better understanding of how this Earth works. Waking up with the light and searching for waves is a special connection with nature that makes us feel pure.