Timing is everything in surf photography. A late afternoon surf check revealed thick barrels with stunning light and clear water, but I had none of my gear. A quick drive followed by a scramble for my gear ensued.
Upon returning to the beach the sky turned overcast and the wind seemed to clock more onshore. I was over it, but Zack and Ethan Dayton suited up and I stayed to take some shots from the comfort of my truck on the beach. The overcast sky gave way to scattered clouds and golden light. What happened next, you can check out in the gallery above.