Winter Swells and Empty Lineups

Surfer: Jesse Joeckel. Photo by Justin Burkle
Use your imagination from the comfort of your home: The empty line-up photos could look like a warm late summer swell, but don’t let that fool you. The air temp was 40 degrees, but compared to the 20–30-degree winter norm, that is almost enjoyable.The 38-degree water is what’s really holding back any sliver of hope, that or the lack of a plane ticket. At the end of the day, trading a few ice cold barrels off with only three other guys out can warm up those numb feet just enough to keep you keeping on.

Surfer Tarvis Beckmann. Photo Ian Cooke